From: Think Tank Subject: Think Tank Vol.0087 20/08/2001 Think.tank@tesco.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS' INDEX 1: Finnish colours 2: Re: turning disks 3: Making disks 4: Duxford's "Cromwell" Part Deux 5: AMX-30 variants 6: Making discs 7: Information on AMX-30 variants 8: Making small discs 9: Making discs 10: Post war conflicts web sites 11: 6-tonners 12: Making discs 13: AMX-30 variants 14: French armoured cars in Syria in 1941 15: Making discs 16: More on Sd.Ah.116 and boats 17: Positive book sale response 18: Ram O.P vehicles 19: Vickers 6 ton tank in China 20: Aussie Renaults 21: Cromwell/Centaur tank 22: Making discs 23: Large punches 24: New (ish) Italeri Crusader -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Small scale kits for sale 2: Tankette indices delay 3: 2001 show dates 4: Next issue -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Listmaster Subject: Finnish colours I was reorganising my emails the other day and found the following from Tony Leung, which had been sent as a response to a query I posted on Missing Links a while ago. I don't read Finnish either but Tony found someone who could and his translation is given below. It appears that the "sand/grey" is a combination of both, which may be why there has been some contradiction as to whether it is sand or grey. I have looked at the site and the article in question is at: www.ipmsfinland.org/tapiokari_savari1.php My interpretations of his colour matches are (remember, I neither read or speak Finnish ;-): Name English FS 595a ref Xtracolour Humbrol Tamiya Harmaa Sand/grey 36306 X752 6 x 103 2 x XF57 7 x 64 1 x XF19 1 x 33 + XF9 Sammalen vihrea Green 24079 X751 116? XF13 + XF60 Hiekanruskea Brown 30040/30097 X754 6 x 29 4 x XF52 1 x 113 1 x XF1 1 x 33 It goes without saying that I would appreciate confirmation/demolition of these interpretations by anyone competent in Finnish. The article contains several paragraphs of text from which I have just extracted the mixes, so the commentary has passed me by completely. Robert Here is Tony's post: If you go to IPMS Finland's homepage, there is an article there plus a colour computer graphics "paint chip" of the 3 shades used. Unfortunately, the article is entirely in Finnish. http://www.sunpoint.net:81/~ipms http://www.sunpoint.net:81/~ipms Perhaps you can find a good web translator program to translate the article for you? I have tried looking for such a program recently and have not had much luck. The title of the article is "Suomalaisen panssarikaluston kolmivarikaavio 1943-1945" by Kari Tapio. There, you will find the FS numbers to match, and the suggested Xtra Colours, Humbrol and Tamiya paints to use. Awhile ago, Andreas Larka was very kind to translate for me the portion of the article about using Tamiya paints. The summary of that translation is as follows: For the Green, use Tamiya XF-13 Japanese Army Green with a little bit of Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow added to make the green a bit more yellow. Use your gut feeling. For the Grey, use a 2/3 mix of Tamiya XF-57 Buff with 1/3 mix of Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey. Also add a few drops of Tamiya XF-9 Hull Red. For the Brown, use 4/5 mix of Tamiya XF-52 Dark Earth and 1/5 mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. This camouflage scheme was hand painted onto the vehicles, so the pattern is a solid hard edge. Tony -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Bradford Chaucer [bradford.chaucer@snet.net] Subject: Re: turning disks Short of buying a lathe, figure $500-$600 for a Sherline with some accessories, you are looking at either picking up a used machine or building something. First you don't say what materials you want to work, and whether you need to do much more than cylindrical turning. If you can limit to wood, plastics and soft metals like brass or aluminum, then you can go with a small wood turning or clock maker's type lathe. If you need to do more extensive work, or want to turn steel, you are talking something like the Sherline or better. If you really only need to do some cut-off work and cylindrical turning, you could build something using a variable speed motor with a drill chuck on the shaft (not a terribly great choice but cheap and workable) or you could pick up a small pen turning or wood turning lathe like the Jarmac or Jet. You might want to browse an issue or two of Model Engineer's Workshop or Model Engineering to see what is available. Bottom line however is be prepared for sticker shock!!! Regards, Bradford Chaucer bradford.chaucer@snet.net I am only planning to turn brass, aluminium, acrylic and resin at this stage. If I need to be making things from steel, I can probably find someone to do that on industrial equipment, but since I have no ambitions to start model engineering, I cannot see the need to sell body parts to purchase one that capable myself. For the same reason, building my own is not an option! Thanks to everyone who has responded on this point by the way. Robert -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: John Harris [ukmilmod@ukmilmod.force9.co.uk] Subject: Making discs Hello all, I have a 'punch & die' set which goes up to around 1", I can't lay my hands on it at the moment, but I'll post details later. Cheers John H -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: John Harris [ukmilmod@ukmilmod.force9.co.uk] Subject: Duxford's "Cromwell" Part Deux Thanks for the exhaustive answer Rob, what a tangled web we weave! I based my Cavalier comments on the entry in BT White's book "British Tanks and Fighting Vehicles 1914-1945", he claims that :- "This tank (Cruiser, Mark VII, Cavalier) was known originally as Cromwell I, but was later renamed Cavalier, Cromwell being kept as the designation of the later Meteor-engined tanks. Only a few hundred Cavaliers were produced, and they were never used in battle as gun-tanks, as the faster and more reliable Cromwells had become available in quantity by 1944, but a version modified as an Observation Post tank was used by some units of the Royal Artillery in North West Europe." I realise that White's book is not exactly the latest research, but it perhaps makes sense? Cheers John H -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: John Harris [ukmilmod@ukmilmod.force9.co.uk] Subject: AMX-30 variants Can I recommend a web site, http://www.info-micro.com/engins/index.htm - the site can take a while to load, but worth the wait. There are also a couple of recent books, notably 'Chars De France'; try Barbarossa Books. Cheers John H -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Robert A. Clifton, R.A. [rclifton@optonline.net] Subject: Making discs The easiest of all ways to make discs is to purchase a circle template, available at any good art supply house. While there, also buy yourself some simple scribing needles, which are nothing more than a sewing needle glued into a wooden dowel. Place the circle template over the sheet stock of the correct thickness and simply begin to scribe the circle. Try to keep the needle vertical. I find that thicker discs (above .030") can be made with layers of .020 thickness, with the joints filled and sanded. Sometimes I find that if I make my disc just one size too large, I can then easily sand it down to a perfect circle, other times the exact size works fine. Sand top and bottom, clean the edges and you are done. The template itself is now very inexpensive, given the move by drafters to CAD. Common size templates range from tiny 3/64" up to 2" in diameter (maybe 40 to the template). I also find that metric size templates give me even more options. Good luck Bob Clifton -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Robert A. Clifton, R.A. [rclifton@optonline.net] Subject: Information on AMX-30 variants There are some great photos of the ARV variant on Full Metal Jacket, located at http://www.kithobbyist.com/AFVInteriors/fullmetal/fullmet.html The photos were taken by Rodolphe Uguen in 1994 Hope this helps Bob Clifton -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Kelvin Mok [klmok@home.com] Subject: Making small discs Jewellers use a draw plate to draw out fine wire and square rods. Costs more than $100 each although some amateur jewellers have made their own out of automobile leaf spring steel. Since you are working in plastic ordinary hardware store drill gauge plates that have drill gauge sized holes stamped into a metal plate would be a good equivalent of a draw plate. Just keep forcing a plastic rod through ever smaller gauge holes until you get the diameter of plastic rod you need. Kelvin Mok -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Paul Roberts [tankmodeler@home.com] Subject: Making discs Robert, > Short of investing in a lathe and turning them down has anyone a better idea? Check out the machinists' tool shops and get yourself a set of hollow punches. I got my set from an Ebay tool seller, but there are lost of them around. My set makes 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4 and 5/16 discs. Use a hard wood block or lino tile to punch into and you'll get pretty good discs. Not perfect, but the harder the underlying surface, the cleaner they are. Another alternative is to use a compass, but with two points and no pencil. Set the diameter where you need it and scribe the circles in the plastic with the second point. You need a few turns around the circuit, as it were, but the result is pretty good. Again, you need to clean up the edges, but it is better than hogging it out to a pencil line. For thicknesses greater than, say, .025" relocate the compass to the back side using the breakthrough of the point to keep things centred and scribe through to meet the first cut. > If I do need a lathe, can anyone steer me towards ones worth looking out for and equally, ones worth avoiding? < I have a Taig lathe and mill. They are the least expensive of the usable lathes, in my opinion, although some of the features it misses may be really important to certain modellers. I happen to like both of them a lot and they have been really helpful over the 3 years I have owned them. The pair, plus a bunch of machine tools cost me just short of US$1000, including postage. Beware that the total weight of the pair was something close to 75lbs so shipping from Phoenix might be a problem to the UK. HTH Paul Roberts -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Grant Parkin [granty_p@hotmail.com] Subject: Post war conflicts web sites Dear Robert and the 'thinkers' Can anyone point me to any post war conflict websites for a non-computer literate friend of mine? The type of things he's looking for are the conflicts of Indo-Pakistan, Angola, Iran-Iraq, etc.. He needs info on camouflage, types of vehicles used, etc., so he can (hopefully) build some dioramas. Any help will be gratefully received and posted on to him, plus the more obscure the subject the better, e.g. Cuban T34/85s in Angola, etc., etc.. Once again many thanks in advance, Grant -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Mike Cooper [coopmik1@hotmail.com] Subject: 6-tonners Dear All The only real source I've seen for the "Vickers Export" scheme is the 6 Tonner ta Bovington. That said, it conforms to the tones seen in b&w photos. The scheme occurs on Chinese, Bulgarian, Bolivian/Chilean, maybe Greek and Polish 6-tonners and on some tanks sent to the Baltic states. In Humbrol terms, the colours on the Bovvie machine are/look to me to be: Green - about 86 or 159+touch black Sand - 94 or better 74+26 to give "Light Stone" Brown - a rich dark brown - try 170+touch 100 OR mix with Revell as WW2 SCC2 - details on the MAFVA site. Black - 33+touch 29 to tone it down This works in 1/76th - if you choose to build in any other scale.... This will only match you to the Bovvie tanks NOT to any 1930s original! Mike Cooper -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Mick Bell [mick@the-belfry.demon.co.uk] Subject: Making discs Hi Bob, For cutting discs from plasticard I generally use a sprigbow type pair of dividers. Stick one prong in the plastic and twirl away to your heart's content, pressing down hard-ish. It's a bit slow but works well on card up to 40 thou thick, 60 thou at a pinch if you've nothing better to do. If you need a lot of discs, plan to spread the job over a couple of evenings - it's deadly dull and makes your fingers sore! Another option is the leather punch, one of those with the wheel with 6 cutters of different sizes, usually ranging from 2 mm to about 6 mm diameter. Also quite hard work, but it has the advantage of producing consistent discs. Max thickness is 40 thou, unless you're Arnie. Mick Bell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Mick Bell [mick@the-belfry.demon.co.uk] Subject: AMX-30 variants Reasonable drawings of the AMX-30 gun tank and variants [ARV, Shahine, Roland, SP 155, Bridgelayer] appeared in one of these Senger u Etterlin books. I only have copies of the relevant pages and can't recall the title, but it was A5 size, black cover, about 300 pages. The drawings are about 1/74 scale and adequate to make a model if backed up by photos. If Ian Pattison wants to get in touch direct I could send him copies. Mick Bell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: nickbalmer [nickbalmer@ukonline.co.uk] Subject: French armoured cars in Syria in 1941 Hello, Seeing the correspondence regarding the Australian's capture and use of French tanks in Syria reminded me of a book that I read by Glubb Pasha which detailed the Arab Legion involvement in the Syrian campaign. The Arab Legion had a number of improvised armoured cars on truck bodies. These cars were used in the invasion of Syria. Glubb tells of an encounter and battle with French armoured cars. Does anybody know which type of armoured cars these were? The French designed several types, for use in the colonies, however I am unaware of any photos that might help to identify these cars in Syria. Regards Nick Balmer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: nickbalmer [nickbalmer@ukonline.co.uk] Subject: Making discs Hello Bob, I get round the problem of discs of card in the 2mm to 10mm plus range by buying lengths of copper or brass tube. You will have seen the sort I am talking about on model shops. I cut an inch length from a tube of a fractionally larger diameter with a hacksaw. The short length of tube is then put into the chuck of my DIY power drill, set to spin. Using a file I grind down one end so that it has a 45 degree taper. If you then take the length of tube and hold it with the taper down over the correct thickness of plasticard, you can produce disks by hitting the other end with a small hammer. It works best if you place the plasticard onto one of those green cutting boards, as you get a cleaner cut. I use a file handle to push the discs back out of the bottom of the tube. You will find that it is best to remove the discs from the tube in ones and two's, and not to let lots build up inside the tube as they begin to distort. Regards Nick Balmer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: From: john.baumann@talk21.com Subject: More on Sd.Ah.116 and boats I knew it, as soon as I wrote a response on this subject, then someone would prove me wrong. I received the following e-mail: I can confirm with photos in some of my literature that the Germans used the Sd.Anh.115 to haul Russian river patrol boats. In addition both the 115 and the 116 were used to transport petrol or oil barrels for supply. At last I know of one field conversion of the Sd.Anh.115 to transform it into a workshop trailer with house type body - similar to some conversions of the Opel Blitz truck. I hope this helps. Regards, Juergen Kurz Well done for proving me wrong! I have asked Juergen to kindly provide the pictorial evidence and will report back to this forum in due course. I also read that some of the Siebel Ferry pontoons were welded as 'tanks' so that they could be bolted together after rail or road transportation but have no evidence of them travelling along the autobahn. Regards, John Baumann Those seeking information on the Russian patrol boats might do well to pursue it via SMML (the Ship Modellers' Mailing List), whose website is at http://smmlonline.com/ Robert -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: From: john.baumann@talk21.com Subject: Positive book sale response Thanks for all your support and inquiries on the book sales, thanks go especially to Malcolm Ireson, Andrew Telford, Tassos Tsiplakos, Fanis Iordanidis (and Fyll Metsovitis who acted as their courier back to Greece!) John Rulton, Ken Merkett, and Arie Dijkhuis. There are still plenty of titles and magazines remaining. Regards, John Baumann -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: mark hazzard [mark@hazzardm.freeserve.co.uk] Subject: Ram O.P vehicles Has anyone got any details of markings for the Ram observation post vehicle used in NW Europe? I've got a 1/35 one just about to be painted (it'll be green, I think that will be OK). A prompt response to my email address would be nice from someone. Regards Mark Hazzard Green sounds OK to me - I would go with US OD No.9 or British SCC No.15. As to markings, the OP tanks would have been part of the field regiments in armoured divisions and SP field regiments. Interestingly, the RAC six-monthly returns make no reference to them (doubtless because they were part of the artillery and not the RAC), so I cannot say exactly which formations had them. However, my preference would be for RCA units, which would mean 4 Cdn AD, whose formation sign was a yellow maple leaf on a green background, or the field regiment in 2 Cdn AGRA (19Fd Regt RCA) which was attached to 1 Cdn Army (formation sign yellow maple leaf on horizontally divided red/black/red). The RCA arm of service marking for the field regiments in 5CDn AD would be a white 74 or 76 on a red over blue patch 9½" by 8½", while for 19 Fd Regt. it was 185. The latter, as an Army formation, would have had a horizontal 2" white bar added top the bottom. The artillery tactical marking would also be carried. This was a blue square with a red quarter and indicated the battery (usually three per regiment, each of two troops). The troop commanders (who generally acted as OPs) for the first (P) battery would have the red square in top right and the number RA or RB. Second (Q) battery would have the red square in bottom right and RC or RD and third (R) would have it in bottom left and RE or RF. Other possibilities would be the same blue/red squares but with an X, indicating the battery commander of each of the three batteries. The Sherman OP knocked out in Villers Bocage has such a marking. There is a very nice photo of one in NW Europe with hessian netting all over the turret and hull in plate 17 of Tanks Illustrated 10 (D-Day Tank Battles), with the tac sign RD on the right of the mantlet. This makes it the commander of D Troop. Stowage and reflections from the front of the trackguards make it impossible to identify a formation sign but the caption suggests 3 Cdn Div, which would have had a yellow maple leaf on grey background. The AoS numbers would have been 42, 43 or 44 (although the towed regiments would likely use carriers as OPs). 84 were completed as OP/command tanks, with the WD census numbers CT202113-136 and 205122-181 - these would have been in white characters 3½" high. Sources for the above are Hodges and Taylor's "British Military Markings", Wise's "WW2 Military Vehicle Markings" and the Tanks Illustrated tome. Robert. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: cdward [cdward@supanet.com] Subject: Vickers 6 ton tank in China I have been looking for info on the Vickers 6-tonner in Thai service (for 1/76 T26 conversion) and have found a few things about its use by the Chinese on the way. On the web there are pics of the 3 colour scheme at http://members.tripod.com/~France40/temp/chinese.html (a copy of S. Zaloga's article in Mil Mod Annual 1983) and http://members.tripod.com/~France40/temp/chinese.html (which has a handy top view). There is also a side view of the later series with a radio bustle before departure in the three colour scheme in the 1987 Tank Museum guide, together with a colour view of the Dutchman finished in the 3 colour scheme. The Tank Museum website has a tiny 3 colour view that looks rather too yellow compared to the real thing. http://www.tankmuseum.org/colinter.html I have painted a 1/76 Swedish M/29 in a very similar scheme. I used Humbrols 28, 84 and 88(?) from the tin, with the black outlines from a Rotring pen, which keeps them very nice and neat. (but needs matting down). Vickers restored the Tank Museum's 6-tonner themselves, so perhaps used original paint references (from the BSC series?) and could have the definitive answer. This tank was destined for Siam and has a number of later features. I understand it was used for training in the UK when war broke out in 1939 (in what colours?!). Worryingly, the WW1 Mk1 "Clan Leslie" seems to be painted in exactly the same colours! Will Ward -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Michael.Grieve@ipaustralia.gov.au Subject: Aussie Renaults Hi there Mike and Thinkers Thanks very much for your thoughts regarding the colour schemes for the Aussie Renault R35s. I'll look into those two AWM photos a bit more closely, and check the references again to see if I've missed anything. The tonal differences between the two paints in the IWM photo (E3665) is much more striking, however, and would seem to correspond much better with the paint scheme on the carrier in AWM photo 024402. More digging is needed! Thanks and best regards Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Jack Livesey [JLivesey@IWM.ORG.UK] Subject: Cromwell/Centaur tank With reference to John Harris’s question about the Centaur in the new Normandy Exhibition in the Land Warfare Hall at Duxford, it is a Centaur tank. This tank is made up from two hulks recovered from Salisbury plain training area in 1990. They were both mark one Centaurs WD No. 183987/U and T 184/ 387/ U; both of these tanks were manufactured in 1943. Due to the rarity of the Liberty engine it was decided to restore the centaur as a Cromwell. This was never a permanent decision as the museum was trying to locate a Liberty engine for the Centaur. Fortunately this has now happened. Centaur OP tanks were not used on D Day but they were used in Normandy as part of the 21st Army Group. As the exhibition is about Normandy and not just D Day it fits into the exhibition. Jack Livesey Collections Assistant Imperial War Museum, Duxford Tel. 01223 499327 Fax 01223 837267 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Jon Barker [jon_barkerm113@hotmail.com] Subject: Making discs Hi, I used to get good results when making discs from plasticard by using a leather punch. Most have a rotating head which makes different sizes of hole, ejecting the "waste" plastic, which of course is the part wanted. I cannot recall the measurements of the discs I used but they were big enough to make shields for 1/72 Dark Age armies. If you cannot find a large enough punch in a normal leatherwork shop try a saddlers, as horse harness uses bigger buckles. I hope this is of some use to you. All the best, Jon Barker. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: John Harris [ukmilmod@ukmilmod.force9.co.uk] Subject: Large punches Dear all, Further to my last post, I have a set of "WAD Punches" 8, 10, 12.5, 16, 20, 25, 32mm Set No. 1000-05 Maun Industries Mansfield Notts. Or 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4" Part No.40110 These have the advantage of being designed to produce rings using little attachments. Self-Centering(sic) Punch & Die set Precision Brand Products Inc. 2250 Curtiss Street Downers Grove Illinois 60515 USA Hope this helps Cheers John Harris -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Daniel Taylor [d-taylor@dircon.co.uk] Subject: New (ish) Italeri Crusader Hi All I've been sent one of the new Crusader Mk II by Italeri and thought you all might be interested in a first impression. Obviously, it is based on their Mk III and you get the same three main sprues with sections of two of them made over to new parts. It's a nice little kit, pretty accurate, although there are a few bits that I'd highlight as ripe for improvement: 1 The gun is too fat and over-long. Fortunately I have an aluminium 2-pdr example left over from another kit... 2 The bulbous mantlet is about right although it could do with some roughing up to achieve a cast look. The downside is that there is no blanking off behind the gun slots so, if you have the hatch open, you'll see how much you failed to build inside the turret. 3 It does not come with sand shields. In any event, the ones supplied with the Mk III are of an incorrect pattern so you would have had some work to do anyway. This is a kit that is crying out for some internal detail. Does anyone out there do a No.9 or No.19 Wireless set? I've built a few No.19s in the last few years and could do with a shortcut. Price of the kit is around £20 I believe - up on the £6 for the Mk III in 1992 but still fairly good value. Lots of detailing and accessory possibilities. I'm sure I'll be buying another fairly soon! A couple of references: There's an Osprey on the Crusader and I have an article from October 1992 (Mil Mod or Airfix - not sure which) by Mr Barbic that has a few good details. Dan Taylor Vasko's article was in Military Modelling. There is also the PSL book on Crusader, which has internal plans, for converting the Airfix kit to a Mk.1. There are No.19 sets in the Italeri Priest kangaroo and Tamiya Universal Carrier (they look suspiciously alike) but the configuration is different in a tank as the two boxes are next to each other instead of one on top of the other, so it would be necessary to cut them apart and re-cement. Then it is simply a matter of removing the taper from the sides and adding the cables which link the two and the protective cage over the front. I have measured the cage so will try to locate the dimensions. Another alternative is to try to obtain a 19 set from a resin manufacturer - Accurate Armour does one in its Ferret (as an alternative for early vehicles) so if you don't have a spare lying around, I understand that they do supply individual parts on request for a modest fee. Robert -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Grant Parkin [granty_p@hotmail.com] Subject: Small scale kits for sale Dear Robert, I hope you don't mind me advertising some 1/72nd scale kits for sale. All prices are in UK Sterling and include UK post and packing charges. They are: Attack Hobby PzKpfw 38t Ausf C__5.00 Revell Jagdpanther__3.50 Hasegawa Minibox No.31 (field camp equipment)__2.50 Hasegawa Minibox No.35 (German infantry attack group)__3.00 Many thanks in advance, Grant. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Listmaster Subject: Tankette indices delay Apologies to those of you still awaiting the indices but my laptop (on which they are compiled) blew up its AC adaptor and the replacement seemed to be rather difficult to obtain for some reason. However, it is now restored to life and I will get them sent out soon. Robert -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: john.baumann@talk21.com Subject: 2001 show dates Peter Bailey (bless him!) recently added some more dates to our 2001 show dates as follows:- 25-27 August Overlord 2001, Denmead Village. 25-27 August Essex classic Military Vehicle Show, Tilbury Fort 2 September IPMS Brampton, Priory Centre, St Neots 22-23 September Euro-Militaire, Leas Cliffe Pavilion Folkestone 29-30 September South West Expo, Bovington Tank Museum 6 October London Group MAFVA Open, West Kensington, London 21 October SALVO, Colchester 3-4 November IPMS Nationals, Telford 4 November Showcase 2001, Letchworth ____________________________________________________________ Dates: Always check advertised dates with the commercial press before setting out off to attend any shows, circumstances may dictate a change of date or venue. The compilers of this list accept no responsibility for any inaccuracies displayed here. MAFVA, London Group. All meetings at National Army Museum, Chelsea (between 2:30-5pm): 8th September, 10th November (AGM). Contact: Peter Bailey, 8 Vicarage Drive, Northfleet, Kent, DA11 9HA. Tel.01474-536232. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Listmaster Subject: Next issue I will be off with the SMMLies ate Festival of the Sea next weekend, so next week's digest is unlikely to go out before Tuesday morning. Robert -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Robert Lockie (Think Tank Listmaster) Back issues of Think Tank (thanks to Shane Jenkins) can be found at: http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/thinktank/thinktank.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume